The title of the exhibition encapsulates Berry’s immersive world: Beyond Denim. With denim as his sole medium, Berry reconstructs not only spaces but also emotions, proving that a single material can transcend its everyday context and evoke a range of new meanings.

19/02/2025 I am currently on a solo trip in Istanbul, eager to discover all this rich city has to offer. While I’m not deeply familiar with the Turkish cultural scene, my recent studies on the Byzantine Empire and its influence have given me a strong historical foundation. Seeing architectural marvels like the Hagia Sophia has brought my textbooks to life. Having immersed myself in Istanbul’s rich past, I was now curious to explore its contemporary art scene. This led me to Ian Berry’s Beyond Denim.

Ian Berry is a British artist based in East London, renowned for his remarkable ability to transform denim into intricate works of art. Repurposing jeans, jackets, and other denim garments, Berry crafts portraits, urban landscapes, and immersive installations. His pieces are rich with texture, depth, and meticulous layering. These qualities often get lost when viewed online or in print. Experiencing his work in person is essential to fully grasp its three-dimensional nature. Beyond Denim, set against the historical backdrop of Kalyon Kültür, offers visitors an impressive encounter with Berry’s large-scale installations, many of which were created specifically to respond to the unique character of the exhibition space.

“Secret Garden” - an immersive space created entirely out of denim

At the heart of the exhibition is a centerpiece fittingly titled Secret Garden, a work created specifically for this show. Denim roses, vines, and plants sprout across the walls of the historical space, intertwining with its aged architecture. Water trickles from a denim fountain, while denim fish glide through a denim pond. Berry crafts an idyllic, near-paradisiacal environment: an immersive oasis for the viewer.

This vision of denim paradise is not isolated; Berry has explored similar themes in other works, such as Paradise Lost, a piece that nods to John Milton’s 17th-century epic poem. Yet, beneath the surface of this denim utopia lies an uneasy tension. Denim, in reality, rarely conjures images of paradise. According to Greenpeace International, the textile industry accounts for 20% of the world’s water pollution, with denim production, particularly the dyeing process, posing some of the most severe environmental and human health risks.

This stark contrast between denim’s production and its presentation in Berry’s work was the one message I found lacking in the exhibition. While Berry’s commitment to repurposing denim is clear, I left wishing for more attention about his artistic process and the material’s environmental implications. A security guard mentioned that laser cutting plays a role in Berry’s technique, an interesting detail I wish had been included in the exhibition’s materials. Just as denim undergoes a complex journey from textile to garment, Berry’s artistic process transforms it further into immersive installations. Understanding this transformation would have added another layer of meaning to the work.

Paradise Lost - portraying the iconic Beverly Hills Hotel

Where Berry’s message becomes particularly clear is in his social commentary on surveillance. Before stepping into the idyllic Secret Garden, we are confronted with a more sobering vision, one grounded in our present reality. A video installation projects footage of Berry’s works, occasionally offering short glimpses into his artistic process. Yet, the installation’s theme resonates with a growing unease in today’s world, one increasingly shaped by artificial intelligence and constant public monitoring.

Berry reflects on his home city, London, notorious for having the highest number of CCTV cameras per capita. Here, however, the dynamic is subtly inverted. We are not merely being watched: we are the watchers. An empty chair, placed within the installation, becomes an invitation. It is ours to occupy. Sitting in it, we assume the role of the observer, reflecting on our own gaze as we confront Berry’s work. It is a gentle yet powerful reminder of the shifting boundaries between observation, surveillance, and our position as both participants and spectators in a (contemporary) society.

A particularly memorable work, for its warmth and familiarity, was Berry’s recreation of his own studio. It captured that intimate blend of work and life: a reality many successful creatives know all too well. For artists like Berry, the boundaries between personal existence and artistic practice often dissolve; creativity becomes inseparable from being. This is evident in the scene before us. Berry’s world is denim. He thinks it, breathes it, and pushes its creative potential beyond what was once thought possible.

Within this space, Berry masterfully plays with denim’s tonal variations, even crafting a small picture of the view from his studio window- a subtle detail tucked into the top left corner. A nod to Warhol’s iconic Brillo Box rests within the composition, grounding Berry within a lineage of artists who redefined the boundaries of art and commercial imagery.

Positioned between the surveillance installation and the Secret Garden, the studio becomes a kind of 'earthly paradise'- a place of creation, where art is cultivated before it blooms into the full vision beyond. Small plants already begin to sprout within this workspace, foreshadowing the explosion of flora awaiting in Secret Garden. In this way, the studio offers more than a glimpse into Berry’s process: it becomes a visual metaphor for the evolution of his creativity. This forms a reminder that paradise is not conjured from nothing; it is grown, slowly, from the artist’s everyday environment

Beyond Denim is a must-see exhibition for anyone visiting Istanbul. Ian Berry’s masterful use of denim pushes the boundaries of material and perception, creating immersive, thought-provoking works that blur the line between reality and art. Set within the historic atmosphere of Kalyon Kültür, the exhibition beautifully reflects the energy of Turkey’s emerging cultural scene- daring, playful, and unafraid to explore new ideas and mediums.

While Berry’s work is an exciting highlight, I am equally eager to continue my journey into the contemporary Turkish art scene. I would love to explore artists based in Turkey, and I welcome any recommendations. Feel free to reach out via the contact form to share your suggestions.